Journal

The clam pie: New England's white pizza

A clam pie is a white pizza, no tomato, topped with fresh clams, garlic, olive oil, and a little chili and herb. It comes out of the New Haven white-clam tradition, one of the genuinely great regional American pizzas. New England's contribution, and a great one.

Ours uses Narragansett Bay littleneck clams from a Rhode Island dayboat purveyor when they're in season, opened to order. The pie itself: our naturally leavened Neapolitan dough, a slick of EVOO and garlic, the clams, Pecorino Romano DOP, parsley, chili flake, a squeeze of lemon at the pass. 60 to 90 seconds in the wood oven. No mozzarella, it would muddle the clam, which is the whole point.

What to drink with it: a chilled Lambrusco. The light fizz and acidity cut the richness; the slight earthiness picks up the garlic and brine. An Etna Bianco works too if you want something quieter. We keep both by the glass.

When it's on: when the clams are good. Usually most of spring through early fall in RI; sometimes a winter run. Ask, or watch the specials. When it's right, it's one of the best things we cook all year.

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